Study Tour in Bosnia - the Land of Blood & Honey
I'm not sure honestly where to even start with this week - travels with my core course (Humanitarian Law & Armed Conflict) and a weekend in Split, Croatia. It was a week of learning and experiencing that I am still processing through but above all I know it was one of the most impactful times I will ever have in my life.
Before I even knew I was accepted into DIS I knew that this core course was the class I simply had to take. For me, going to Bosnia was so important because I have two foster sisters who lived in Sarajevo during the siege and escaped Bosnia amidst war and genocide. I have spent my life loving and looking up to these two big sister of mine and understanding their home and Bosnia's unique culture is something I never thought I would be able to do. This course and study tour was the number one reason I came to DIS and it more than exceeded my expectations.
Over the course of 5 days, we heard from various residents of Sarajevo - the capital city -, saw museums and memorials, and explored the beautiful countryside. In 1992 as Yugoslavia was dissolving, Bosnia erupted into brutal warfare between the three ethnic groups that lived there. Deep ethnic between Bosniaks (Bosnian Muslims), Croats, and Serbs still exist and the effects of warfare on political and economic levels are still shape Bosnia today. The entire time I was struck by a number of dichotomies that I feel is the only way to accurately describe the state. There is a reason why it is called the "land of blood and honey".
There was so much beauty in the mountains surrounding Sarajevo, and horror knowing those mountains were used just 20 years ago to carry-out the longest siege in modern warfare.
The Balkan Alps are home to some of the least explored canyons, rivers, and mountains. On the final full afternoon of our week we drove thin winding roads up north to a small village where we were served a traditional meal - Burek - on an enclosed patio overlooking the mountain we would be walking in a short hour. The hike took us around a mountain, to a shepherding village still used during the summer months, and was led by the funniest man you have ever met. He was careful to point out all the plants that were either a "cuisine for one time" (i.e. poisonous) or "cuisine for many times". Adventure sports are popular in Bosnia and it is obvious why.
The Tunnel of Hope Museum reminded us how things that appear beautiful don't always stay that way. During the siege of Sarajevo - lasting over 1,000 days - life changed for all of its residents. Candles were used as currency for plays put on in secret and schools were hidden from eyes watching above. Two safe areas of Bosnia existed separated by the runaway of the Sarajevo airport and the smaller of the two provided food and water at significantly lower prices. But when the UN peace keeping actually prevented people from crossing and getting needed supplies citizens instead dug a tunnel 960 meters long. The woman who owned the house above the exit to the tunnel stood there everyday and gave each person who exited much needed water. She still lives just a few miles away. This museum showed not only the horrors of war that must be remembered, but also the strength and compassion of a group of citizens who did the seemingly impossible.
There was humor and a carefree smile in all the people, balanced with strong feelings of hopelessness for the state of their country.
One of the themes that ended up weaving through all of our visits and lectures over the week was the unique culture of the Bosnian people. A stand-out feature of the described (and generalized) Bosnian personality was their sense of self-deprecating humor. The favorite joke was that the cornerstone of a professional life in Bosnia was spending long mornings and afternoons at a coffee shop. ((My kind of work!!)).
Underneath these jokes though was an issue of widespread corruption and unemployment rates of 60% for people under 30. Almost all of the people we engaged with expressed real concern over the future of their country, and the idea that it might get worse before it gets better. I never understood the importance of humor as a coping method or as a source of comfort until this trip. But the truth is, we all need humor and joy in our lives. While there is real pain underneath, no one should discount the power of a good joke at one's self-expense - something the Bosnians know well.
There were relaxed nights at the small wine bar in the Old City with close friends, paired with tight hugs and shared tears.
I knew that there were multiple people on this trip that I was excited to spend the week with and get to know better. Having this time to learn and experience Bosnia as a group was so important and rewarding. We were there to watch funny movies and eat junk food together and we were there to spend hours on a bus ride processing what we just witnessed.
Above all I am left with a sense of extreme gratitude for the people on this trip for the ways in which we all stood together and supported each other through the especially challenging moments learning about the 11,000 deaths during the siege or seeing the genocide memorial in Srebencia. Whenever tears were shed endless hugs, tissues, and bars of chocolate were offered up without a second thought. Whenever I had a really hard time at sights, I was always amazed and so grateful for one of the staff from DIS who came on our trip - for her hugs and comforting words and stories of her own. If I couldn't see this place with my family (not yet at least!), then I am so grateful I got to spend the week with this group of people all dedicated to learning and understanding the country and its history.
It feels weird to be back - like I have left something unfinished. I learned and was stretched last week but I know the experience is not yet complete. I cannot wait to talk with my sisters - hear their stories and be able to really connect places and faces with their memories. I also cannot wait to continue telling anyone who will listen about my time in Bosnia. I am saddened that many people know little of the conflict that occurred and will never visit this vibrant and beautiful country in the Balkans. So please ask me more about Bosnia and please next time you're in the region - don't overlook this special place.
